Aspects of this topic are discussed in the following places at Britannica.
Gauze weaving is an open weave made by twisting adjacent warps together. It is usually made by the leno, or doup, weaving process, in which a doup attachment, a thin hairpin-like needle attached to two healds, is used, and the adjacent warp yarns cross each other between picks. Since the crossed warps firmly lock each weft in place, gauze weaves are often used for sheer fabrics made of smooth...
...include brocade, damask, and brocatelle. Dobby weaves, requiring a special loom attachment, have small, geometric, textured, frequently repeated woven-in designs, as seen in bird’s-eye piqué. Leno weaves, also made with a special attachment, are usually lightweight and open, giving a lacelike appearance, and are made by twisting adjacent warp yarns around each other, then passing the...
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